Fernie: Frontier Mountain Village Meets Bohemian Tourist Haven

As the sun slowly sets over Fernie, the shadow of the Ghost Rider appears on Mount Hosmer—just one of the reminders of an “Indian curse” that plagued the valley for decades.

But despite this curse, to which many of the town's catastrophes are attributed, Fernie has transformed itself into a prosperous, albeit smaller, tourist haven. Best known for its ski resort with some of the deepest powder around, Fernie is a four-season destination that also offers legendary fishing, mountain biking, golfing and hiking. And while there is large-scale resort accommodations, chain restaurants and condo developments, a significant portion of Fernie remains untouched by the modern world.

	Fernie Townsite Photo From © 2004-www.rockiesimages.com

This yesteryear charm is also evident in Fernie's downtown. Early 20th century stone buildings dot the landscape, lively taverns and unique shops offer today's luxuries housed behind historic facades and shop owners provide the kind of warm hospitality reminiscent of years gone by.

So with all its modern amenities, a plethora of recreational activities and awesome vista's, Fernie has the charm of a mountain village whose only “curse” is how difficult it is to leave.

HISTORY

	Ghost Rider on Mt. Hosmer Photo From © 2004-www.rockiesimages.com

Fernie’s early days were a string of unfortunate events. Many blame the calamities on its namesake, William Fernie, a Scottish prospector who moved into the Elk Valley in 1868 in search of gold. Legend has it that along his travels, William Fernie met up with an Indian Chief and his daughter, the Princess. William Fernie became immediately infatuated with the girl. The only problem was the princess was not the object of his desire—it was the gleaming black stones she wore around her neck. Realizing the stones were coal, William Fernie yearned to acquire the whereabouts of the mineral. Imagining the great riches this valuable commodity would earn him, he made a bargain with the Chief—marriage to the Princess in exchange for the Chief’s secret. Upon locating the coal deposits, William Fernie jilted the princess. This infuriated the girl’s parents and they subsequently placed a curse on the valley, proclaiming fire and other catastrophes would forever plague the area. The spurned princess continues to haunt the town of Fernie, in the form of a shadow on Mount Hosmer, known as "the Ghost Rider".

In 1887, William Fernie, along with his brother Peter Fernie, and the newly elected MLA (Member of the Legislative Assembly) Colonel James Baker (who is also credited with starting the town of Cranbrook), established the Crow’s Nest Coal & Mineral Company. Shortly thereafter, the three began with the arduous task of building mines and lobbying for a proper railroad system so their coal could be exported. It wasn't until 1897, ten years after establishing the company, that the construction was complete and the men began to reap the rewards of their toil.

Over the next few years, as the coal industry boomed, Fernie continued to florish. The population was in a rapid incline and new industries began to pop up in the wake of new settlers. All seemed well in Fernie—not at all like a place that had been afflicted so many years before.

But Fernie's calm was about to change. In 1902, an explosion rocked an underground mine at the Crow's Nest Pass Coal Company, killing 128 workers. This was the beginning of a long road of hardships for Fernie and considered by many to be the first in a series of disasters set forth by the “curse of the valley”. The Coal Creek Mine disaster is still considered one of the worst mining catastrophes in Canadian history.

	Coal Creek Mine Ruins Photo From © 2004-www.rockiesimages.com

Misery struck yet again in 1904, the year of the community’s incorporation, when a fire brought much of the town’s wooden business district to the ground. Only four years later, Fernie was hit with a second inferno—dubbed the ‘Great Fire’. This devastating firestorm lasted 90 minutes and leveled everything but 30-odd buildings. It was after this fire that much of the business district was rebuilt of stone and brick. Many of these buildings are still standing today and considered to be significant historic sites.

In the 1920s, around the same time as William Fernie's death (in 1921), the logging industry tapered off, leaving an already vulnerable Fernie open to economic ills. Once the Depression of the 1930s hit, Fernie fell hard from the blow. The coal industry stagnated and Fernie's population and dreams plummeted.

Fernie also had more than its fair share of disastrous floods over the years. When the large dumps of snow melted into large quantities of water, the Elk Valley River rose to dangerous levels. More than once Fernie was faced with substantial damage due to floods.

In 1964, in an attempt to end Fernie's string of bad luck, Chief Red Eagle and his Kootenay Tribe smoked a peace pipe with Mayor James White. Shortly after, Fernie began seeing happier days. Some attribute this change of destiny to the ceremony, while others feel the upsurge is due to the development of the Fernie’s Snow Valley ski resort in 1963. Whatever the case, Fernie now draws thousands of visitors annually and the curse that once hung over the valley has seemingly disappeared.

TRANSPORTATION

Fernie is tucked in the Elk Valley district, in the southeast corner of British Columbia's Rocky Mountains. Most international visitors travel to the area by way of Calgary International Airport, approximately 300 km (86 mi) northeast, or 3.5 hours away. For domestic flights, Cranbrook, located 89 km (55 mi) west, offers the closest commercial air services. There are also a few small airplane and helicopter charter services available direct from Fernie, or neighbouring Elk Valley Airport, just outside of Sparwood.

For those travelling to Fernie by way of Calgary, or any other centre with an airport, renting a car offers the most flexibility. This way, visitors can travel throughout the town and to the ski slopes (5 km or 3 mi away), without having to rely on shuttle or taxi service. From Calgary, visitors head south on Hwy #2 to Fort Macleod, then turn west and continue on Hwy #3. From Cranbrook, the route is southeast on Hwy #3. Those who have just experienced the ski hills of Whitefish, Montana would venture north on interstate Hwy # 93. Since rental vehicles are in high demand, especially during the winter, it's best to book ahead whenever possible. While in Fernie, taxi service and shuttles are offered, but the town does not have any public transportation.

A lot of options exist for those who prefer to travel by bus, but since Fernie is a smaller centre, transportation service is rarely offered more than twice a day by any one service provider. There are a few companies offering shuttle service from the Calgary International Airport, as well as the Cranbrook airport, and most drop visitors off right at the ski hill. Greyhound Bus Service also makes a stop in Fernie and can be connected from all major cities and many small towns. Greyhound does not depart from the airport, however, so it is not ideal for those travelling from there.

CLIMATE

Fernie from Above © 2004-www.rockiesimages.com

Much of Fernie's allure is due to its amicable weather. Even in the height of winter, most people will find the temperature bearable. December to January, the peak winter months, average - 6.5 °C (20 °F), considered relatively mild by Canadian standards. July and August are the warmest months, with the mercury reaching a mean of 25 °C (77°F). Rain is usually heaviest in May and June, averaging 50 mm (2 in) and leaving the area a lovely shade of green. The mountains act as a weather shield protecting the area from extreme weather fluctuations, resulting in an average of 162 frost-free days – good news for campers.

But best of all is the copious amount of snow that drops steadily throughout the winter in Fernie. Snowfall averages a whopping 8.8 m (29 ft)—the approximate height of a two-storey home.

The Griz
So where does all this snow come from, one might ask? Local legend attributes the white stuff to Griz. The legend of Griz begins around 1879 when a young boy was born in a bear cave. When the bear awoke, he attempted to kill and eat the little boy and a raucous fight ensued. When a resident went to investigate the noise the next day, all he saw was a little boy frolicking, wearing a bearskin coat and hat. Years later, backcountry skiers spied the figure of an average-sized man, with tremendous shoulders, draped in fur garments. Carrying an eight-foot Musket, Griz removed the gun from his shoulder, pointed the barrel into the clouds and fired a shot, inducing snow to fall. Every year a festival is held to honour Griz and his contribution to Fernie’s incredible powder. And every year, the Griz, so pleased by the celebration, shoots more snow from the sky.

	Snow Falls in Fernie Photo From © 2004-www.rockiesimages.com

Folklore aside, meteorologists contend the deep snow is the product of storm systems that develop in the Pacific Ocean off the coast of northern Oregon. The system then makes its way across central Washington and Idaho, eventually colliding into the Lizard Range, where it gets caught in the Elk Valley. The effect is similar to a washing machine on the heavy-duty cycle, except the turbulence produces clean, bountiful snow.

RECREATION

For the Love of Snow
Whether ski/snowboard enthusiasts wish for a physically demanding day or they desire some relaxing, relatively deserted runs down the slopes, Fernie Alpine Resort has it covered.

The peaks of this Canadian Rockies destination hosts skiers from early December to mid April. The summit of the Lizard Range soars 1,924 m (6,313 ft) up, with a base elevation of 1,067 m (3,500 ft). Fernie has nine lifts (including four quad chairs), 107 runs, five bowls, numerous glades and a terrain park. This ski resort is prominent on the list of the top ski destinations in the world and has hosted several world freestyle competitions. Massive improvements have made winter excursions more luxurious as well as popular, but skiers can encounter secluded runs, especially mid-week.

Grizzly in Fernie's Backcountry © 2004-www.rockiesimages.com

Safari skiers, (i.e. those who wish to partake in several resorts on a single trip), may wish to enroll with a tour operator. Several packages include Kimberley and the Banff/Lake Louise area as well as Fernie. To accommodate the needs of family travel, Fernie Alpine Resort offers multiple runs, catering to all levels. The resort also has a ski school, as well as a children’s day care program tailored to non-skiers.

Backcountry skiers, known as ‘those who earn their turns’ because their grueling trip up is rewarded with a short-but-sweet trip down, will find Fernie to be an excellent destination. Skiers and boarders can enlist the aid of a certified tour company and be guided through some gorgeous, unspoiled terrain. Individuals wishing to do an excursion on their own must pay careful attention to weather conditions, as the heavy snowfalls can cause dangerous, sometimes lethal avalanches. Several local businesses report the latest conditions, as well as feature topography maps and avalanche kits.

For those who want to go higher and explore unblemished territory, snow-cat skiing and heli-skiing companies are able to fulfill most yearnings. For cat skiing, a snow-cat (tracked vehicle), travels up the slopes to terrain ranging from 1,372 m (4,500 ft.) to as high as 2,134 m (7,000 ft.), a height unreachable by conventional methods. Heli-skiing allows for higher altitudes and striking views, but is more expensive than cat skiing and there is a risk that the helicopter may be grounded due to weather conditions. Either ski package requires skiers and snowboarders to be at an advanced level and fit.

Nordic skiers, both skate and classical style, can enjoy 14 km (9 mi) of groomed trails at Fernie Alpine resort. The trails are multiple use, so skiers, dog sled teams and snowmobile tours are encouraged to show each other mutual respect.

Spring, Summer and Fall
Fernie's deep snow certainly makes it a popular winter destination, but its mountain trails and numerous lakes and rivers make for awesome summer activities as well.

Mountain Biking
The land around Fernie offers a variety of terrain for bikers. During the warmer seasons, Fernie Alpine Resort opens its slopes to mountain bikers. Visitors can purchase a lift pass for a single trip or opt for a day pass, which is good for multiple trips. A pleasant ride for families and others looking for a more relaxing excursion is the Coal Creek Heritage Trail, which takes travellers to the historic ruins of the hundred-year-old Coal Creek town site.

For those who wish to low gear up the hills then spend some thrilling moments careening down again, Fernie and area also offers some challenging rides. Trails such as Ich Bin Sofa Trail and the Ridgemont Clearcut trail systems are for the audacious biker who salivates at the thought of log jumping on a descent. Some bike shops offer rentals, and many have trail maps. Oh, and if the section is labeled ‘Scary’, only the hardiest of extreme bikers should attempt a ride down.

Hiking
Filling the lungs with fresh air and working the leg muscles are only two of the benefits of hiking in Fernie. Another is taking in the sights and sounds of Fernie’s mountains and wilderness. Greenhorn hikers can breeze up the mountain in a chair lift at Fernie Alpine Resort and descend on foot. A café is situated mid-mountain, offering refreshments and snacks.

Those who fancy themselves more Sir Edmund Hillary types can combine their ambition and physical stamina to climb the summits of Mount Fernie, Mount Bizzaro, , Mount Hosmer, Mount Trinity or the Three Sisters. Trail guides can be purchased at the Visitor Information Centre or most sporting goods shops.

	View from Mt. Proctor Photo From © 2004-www.rockiesimages.com

Wildlife viewing tours praise the virtues of nature without disrupting the pristine wilderness. The Elk Valley is home to many creatures, including Rocky Mountain goats, grizzly bears, black bears, elk, whitetail deer, lynx, bald eagles and loons. Photo opportunities abound on these tours. While the wildlife in the area is amazing to look at, these animals are indeed wild. For those not familiar with the area, or who have little or no wilderness training, a tour group is recommended. And remember, all hikers and recreationalists are expected to follow the general rules of leaving the area exactly as it was found—simply beautiful.

Golfing
Golfers visiting the Fernie area can enjoy a good game, if they are not totally distracted by the striking mountain scenery. The Fernie Golf and Country Club offers a par 70 course that is 5,995 m (6,556 yd) long. It ranks in the top 25 golf courses in British Columbia. Travel to the Sparwood Golf Club, northeast of Fernie on Hwy #3, to admire another all-levels course with an alpine setting.

Fishing
Fishing in the emerald waters of Elk River and its tributaries is a passion shared by many. Fly-fishing enthusiasts may reel in bass, as well as rainbow and brook trout. When the flow of the waters is low, the gentle movement of the Elk Valley’s creeks and rivers is perfect for float fishing. Float fishing is usually done in a canoe or flat bottom boat, and entails fishing while gently moving downstream.

Or, during the winter, try jigging through a hole in the ice to reap the rewards (or go home empty-bucketed) of ice fishing. Contact a tour guide to discover some of the hot spots. Anglers can rent or purchase equipment, licences and accessories at sporting good shops in Fernie.

Après Ski – Après Anything
Whether ending the day soaking in a private hot tub with a glass of bubbly in hand, throwing the diet out the window with a gourmet meal, or taking a beating from a massage therapist, those wishing for an alternative to the slopes have several choices. Most of these services are available at the more posh of Fernie’s accommodations, and are often open to non-guests. There is also an array of services available right in town.

Regarding accommodations, the choice ranges from ultra premium resorts to the more minimalist rooms of a hostel. Accommodations can be found both in town and right on the hill.

Dining establishments are equally as accessible and varied. Most of the high-end resorts feature fine dining rooms with delectable choices created by top chefs. Moderately priced restaurants and grab-and-go joints also exist at the ski resort, in town and on the highway.

	Fernie Courthouse © 2004-www.rockiesimages.com

The Elk River area was nicknamed the Whiskey Gap in the early '20s, as Alberta’s prohibition law caused rampant bootlegging from Montana. When the US later declared itself an alcohol-free zone, Canada became a supplier, with rumrunners heading downstream to the United States. Today, Fernie has a few places that one can go for a cool brew without risking incarceration. The historic Grand Central Hotel features live music as well as DJ dance music. The Eldorado Lounge, situated in an old livery building, is also a favourite spot in town. The Northern is renown for lively tunes (both DJ spun and live), and while some can try out their moves on the dance floor, the rhythmically challenged can look impressive shooting some pool. There are several other joints that one can relax and unwind, including some right on the ski hill. The Griz is one of the more notable rendezvous spots on the hill. Memo to party animals: Fernie is not a wild town. One of the above options, or a movie at the Vogue Theatre is about all there is to do for those awake after 10 pm. But think of the trade off: starry nights, peaceful evening walks and little noise pollution.

An amble in historic downtown to see the architecture is worthwhile. Many of these beautiful brick or stone buildings were constructed just after Fernie’s second disastrous fire in 1908. An example is The Courthouse, two blocks off of 2nd Avenue. Built in 1911, this noble chateau-style building is a British Columbia Historic Landmark. Another eye-catching structure is the Fernie Heritage Library on 3rd Avenue, where blissful readers are rewarded with streams of natural sunlight and feelings of spaciousness due to the 18 ft. ceilings. Guidebooks of the historic buildings can be purchased at several stores in downtown.